Who wins the challenge organized by Scatti di Gusto for the masterclass conducted with Gino Sorbillo?
The parterre of the (anomalous) masterclass is rich.
To face off in the ring, the champions of the Fiordilatte of Naples and the Mozzarella di Bufala Campana Dop: Marco Capezzuto from Latteria Sorrentina and Gaetano Sorrentino from Sorì.
To welcome them, the dough is made with organic flour from Gino and Toto Sorbillo and biga with Nuvola flour and Super Cloud by Vincenzo Iannucci from the Mulino Caputopantry.
A clash of white heat made even more incandescent by the presence on the stage of exponents of traditional Neapolitan pizza and contemporary Neapolitan pizza.
It immediately goes to the heart of the dispute with Gino Sorbillo that indicates the way to follow to the broad audience composed mostly of young pizza makers. “The younger ones must learn the secrets of perfect filling starting with the fiordilatte which is easier to use because it releases less liquid and allows you to prepare a better pizza ,” explains Sorbillo who exemplifies: “When we select pizza chef figures we ask to prepare a pizza and that’s when the choice of the fiordilatte or the buffalo makes the difference because if the queen is the Margherita and if it is true that this is the only pizza that can be compared between the two dairy products, it is really complicated to do it with both of them. So better bet on the fiordilatte and when you will have the necessary mastery to prepare even the buffalo to give great satisfaction to the customers”.
And it is immediately Gaetano Sorrentino who explains that the buffalo mozzarella can not be used on pizza as it is, but it must first be left to rest in the refrigerator to dry it with ventilation.
And it is also believed that the plus of Sorì’s buffalo mozzarella is in the claim that explains how the dairy uses the water from Roccamonfina.
Water and milk, therefore, and rennet. Add the salt. In the mozzarella and the fiordilatte nothing else goes. The differences are in the skill of the master cheesemakers, explains Marco Capezzuto, who is convinced of the goodness of the fiordilatte vaccine on the pizzas for his ability to gracefully accompany even the most complex fillings.
“There is only Fiordilatte on pizza” is the claim of Latteria Sorrentina. Even if the specification would be which fiordilatte? There are three types of workings of the Fiordilatte of Naples, Fiordilatte de Monti and Fiordilatte of the Peninsula that stand out on the counter of the masterclass.
There is no game about the quantities and the choices of customers, the pizza chefs present: the fiordilatte is the most requested. Fiordilatte from Naples for Gino Sorbillo and Giuseppe Pignalosa who also use, of course, the Mozzarella di Bufala (from the Casolare and Barsotti, respectively), but also from local dairies.
The explanation is there, and Gaetano Sorrentino illustrates: the purchase price of the buffalo mozzarella is twice that of the fiordilatte. True, even if, as Marco Capezzuto explains, niche fiordilatte such as the 100% Campania Fiordilatte di Napoli has a cost that is very close to that of the buffalo. Although the analysis deepens, the fiordilatte offers higher yields than a pizzaiolo as regards the weight loss that is natural in a live product such as mozzarella and fiordilatte.
On the client’s plate in a pizzeria, the buffalo costs on average 2 € more than with the realization with fiordilatte, the pizza chefs present explain in unison.
Even a master pizza maker like Antonio Pepe of Antica Pizzeria di Caiazzo – on the square for 87 years – in the buffalo production area admits that the demand and consumption of fiordilatte are higher. Sasà Martucci de I Masanielli, another famous pizza maker from the city, echoes it at the specific point.
What aspects of dairy products is there to work with? Marco Capezzuto and Gaetano Sorrentino agree on my assist: there is a need for the figure of a pizza maker – almost a cheese maker as happened in the mills where the pizza makers took possession of the rheological characteristics of the flours, they experimented with new mixtures and new textures, and they have become ambassadors and above all teachers who explain to other pizzaiolo.
There is an apparent similarity between the dough point of the dough of the flour and the point of the dairy product. The magic moment in which meal becomes pasta and milk is ready to become fiordilatte or mozzarella unites the artisan sensibilities of pizza makers and cheesemakers.
And then there is the excellent theme of logistics and transport that influences the quality and characteristics of dairy products: a fiordilatte eaten in Naples or a mozzarella tasted in Caserta will be hopelessly different in Milan. And even more in London or Tokyo. There is a need to differentiate the products also if there is the Japanese super niche customer who ensures a twice-weekly supply of mozzarella at astronomical transport costs by plane.
Do not miss the contradictions on the widespread distribution in Italy of the expensive dairy products that make Campania a significant gastronomic field and a young pizza maker stands out at 40 km from Modena who has problems with supply. Getting the fiordilatte and mozzarella to its destination in the best possible conditions is the challenge of the sector. Who seeks other ways such as slaughtering and freezing with the aftermath of the controversy over the originality of the product (you know the belief of the writer concerning the hoax: frozen yes but not DOP that would bring mozzarella to the dangerous clive of a lowering of image). Part a little more favored the fiordilatte which resists better to temperature changes than the fatter mozzarella, but the solution is not at hand.
And on the subject of protection, the fiordilatte has to make headway, explains Gaetano Sorrentino: “The fiordilatte is growing thanks to the production companies certainly not for the initiatives of the State.” The reference is to the tangled mozzarella issue Stg which in reality is fiordilatte vaccine and the lack of Dop certification of the Fiordilatte of the Southern Apennines (Agerola, as far as is known, is not a PDO). A situation that also unites the Neapolitan pizza that has the reduced protection of the Stg, Traditional Specialty Guaranteed.
The correct use of fiordilatte and mozzarella is therefore in the hands of the artisanal ability of the pizza makers to respect the product and to exalt it in the composition of the fillings. And here we are a couple of steps back from the dough, which become more if we consider the third element of the triad dough-filling-baking that defines the perfect pizza.
Starting from the “cut to craft” is the premise of respect for the fiordilatte and the mozzarella. Vincenzo Iannucci, Raffaele Bonetta and Giuseppe Pignalosa should always use the splint to cut dairy products. Or, in version 2.0, the knife. I am banning slicers and right tools to crush potatoes, in short.
If on the dough we are ahead, and we have to be open-mindedly accepting the comparison with different textures and pizzas – underlines Gino Sorbillo (and the thought goes to the famous pizza Margherita by Carlo Cracco and to all the controversy that came out of it, despite almost none that had tasted ) – on stuffing and cooking one must still study. Salvatore Kosta underlines the fact of the differences to be brought back into the bed of well-made pizza.
The high cavities, the contemporary pizza, and the canotto pizza are well defined in the dough, and Vincenzo Iannucci proposes the immediate comparison between the two Neapolitan types with a taste of the direct and chariot capacities in the mix offered with Bio, Nuvola and Super Cloud by Mulino Caputo.
And on cooking there is a stance relative to the pitting: the uniform white of a Neapolitan pizza oven fired at high temperature makes it doubtful that fiordilatte and mozzarella are not as pure as milk. The excessive pitting shows a disharmony of the fat content or the excessive presence of water. In short, the middle way is the most appreciated.
But in the final who wins? Fiordilatte vaccine or buffalo mozzarella? Both dairy products win if adequately used, and if the classic daisy loudly asks for the fiordilatte, the buffalo mozzarella is unparalleled raw on the focaccia which is enriched by its moods.
For the rest, we are open to all the considerations of the case: it is enough that mozzarella and fiordilatte are delicious. You can’t escape from here!